By Mike Singh

When it comes to Shimano fishing reel parts, you never really have to look very far to find the right parts you need to get up and running again. Shimano has long been synonymous with fishing and is well recognized around the world. Originally founded in Japan in Kansai in the early 1920’s this company initially specialized the production of precision bearings and gearing.

Shozaburo Shimano had a vision at the time when he first started his company, and that was to produce the best product possible at a good cost to the consumer. With the Shimano fishing parts division that is currently considered one of the finest departments in the world, this vision has found its way to its expected and anticipated destination. Shimano fishing reel parts can be found in just about anywhere fishing reels are being sold, and they also offer an extensive list of replaceable parts for your reel so chances are you will not have to replace the reel all together.

Should you need fishing reel parts, there are actually a few routes you can go to get yourself back on the lake quickly. You could go to an authorized Shimano reel parts department in your favorite local sporting goods store, or you could go online and deal with them directly. If you are looking for quality reel parts at great savings, going online to their site is definitely a step in the right direction. Shimano has a great group of knowledgeable staff on hand to help you find what you need for your reel, and they carry a very large stock of parts for just about all of their lineup of fine fishing reels.

This company prides itself on the fact that it can offer you quality reel parts, for some of the reels that may not even be in production today. This will allow you to save on that favorite reel, should you not want to purchase a new model. This makes for a great service department, and you will never have to be disappointed with the online ordering that is provided from the sight. You can look online today and find the right parts for your prized reel, should you not be able to find what it is you are looking for, they will be happy to recommend a replacement reel that will be the closest match to what you currently own.

By Mike Singh

When it comes to fly-fishing clearly it is all about the flies, tying trout flies can indeed be a laborious task should you elect to try. When it comes to tying, you need a steady hand and a good idea what the trout will most likely be willing to hit. This is usually where some research comes into play, knowing what the trout’s main diet is will only further your understanding of what would be the best bait to land that prized trout.

The art of tying trout flies has been regarded as a true test in the realm of fishing. It is one thing to go out and purchase a great spinner or spoon for your collection, it is completely another to consider making your own lures. There are actually many hours involved to get the fly looking just right, should the fly not look realistic chances are the fish will not be fooled into hitting it. Should you feel so inclined to try it, there are many things that you will need to learn as well as have at your disposal.

Tying trout flies is anything but easy of quick, one fly could easily take you several hours to complete and this does not even guarantee that you will get strikes from it. For this reason many people turn to the pros to make their great bug like replicas as they know the ins and outs of this delicate process. So which route would you go? Would you look in a catalog or fishing shop to find the right piece for your collection? Or will you try your hand at tying for yourself?

You could easily spend several hundreds of dollars in materials, if you wish to try tying. While it may be true that once you have the hang of it, you will be able to make many flies and save a bundle. Some find this whole process tedious to say the least, and would easily go out and buy a batch of flies already made from their local tackle shop. Basically it all comes down to whether or not you feel you have the time and the patience to tackle what many feel is a very frustrating task. Tying trout flies is a great way to get a better understanding of the fish you seek, yet sometimes it may be easier to allow the professionals to do it for you.

By Jeffrey Ryall

How would you like to know how to get your fishing bait on the cheap, from the local supermarket? You can occasionally find some gems tucked away on a shelf at your local supermarket. By the time it gets to late summer most fish would have had enough of the ordinary bait so what if you could go round your local Morrison’s or Sainsbury’s armed with £10, could you find an alternative. Fishing at ponds in particular and with tench and carp on my mind here are some alternatives that I think would work.

First I came to chickpeas. Dried chickpeas used to be very fashionable carp bait, but now they no longer feature and at 69p they looked a bargain. This time though I was going to go overboard and buy a bottle of oyster sauce. Soak the peas over night, then let them simmer for about an hour, then soak them in the oyster sauce for a day. This makes the peas go a darker colour when soaked.

Next came the baked beans in tomato sauce. Try to find a brand with a high salt content. Forget the healthy choice, fish like their food salty, so I would buy a bag of salt as well and sprinkle on the beans.

Salted peanuts were next on the isle, cashew nuts are also good for carp bait but as I was looking for cheap bait I went with the salted peanuts. Soak the peanuts in salty water for two days, then simmer for about 30 minutes. Attach a couple of whole nuts to your hook, with a mesh bag containing crushed nuts should do the trick.

Tuna flakes in oil.

Tuna flakes in oil as apposed to brine is best as this is good to make a ground from. This works well for bream so I do not see any reason for not trying it for carp and tench.

Sweet corn.

Sweet corn is just as good for fish as it is for us. Sometimes the bright colours can put the fish off so its always a good idea to have a tin of black cake die. Put a teaspoon of die into the sweet corn and stir in well. Leave over night to soak, This should change the colour and will not scare off the fish.

Dog Chews and Dog Food.

Everyone knows how good dog chews and dog food can be. Frolic is very good for barbell, it’s very tough so it will stay on the hook when casting. A packet of bacon flavoured dog chews are also a good thing to have in tour bait tin, they can be cut up into small pieces to look like pellets. Last thing on my list is a tin of dog food, a chicken flavoured large sausage. This could be flavoured up with some spicy curry powder for extra zing.

Well that’s it for now, time to put this lot to the test, good luck.

Jeff Ryall runs a sports website that focuses on information about sport and sport related products. You can enjoy reading tips, tricks and techniques about golf at his site at http://fishermansfriend1.blogspot.com

By Charles E. White

I have been fishing with an old friend lately named Joe. I have known him since he was born 38 years ago, 39 tomorrow. Happy Birthday Joe!

We have been fishing at a lake I love to fish, mainly because of the big bass there. If you’re a Bass Fishing Newsletter Subscriber, you know where I’m talking about. Anyway, if you look in most peoples tackle boxes you will find normal color lures like grape, black, brown, purple, and the normal colors for lures. Joe is a different story……

When you look in Joe’s tackle box you see some of the ugliest lures you have ever seen. Lures like a bright green tube that you almost need sunglasses to look at it. Or his green frog that is so far from any color of a frog that you wonder where he got it and why anyone would purchase that color to begin with to fish for bass.

So, what is my point? Well, he catches bass on these darn lures. I mean I wouldn’t even want people to know I even have them in my tackle box but he is proud as he can be of them and uses them regularly and catches fish with them. I have to start asking myself if maybe I should invest in a few of them. They go against everything I have ever read about choosing a color to fish in stained water. He has caught bass with them on sunny days, cloudy days and days when it was raining.

The first time he used them and hooked two bass, I thought it was just luck. Well, then he caught two more bass tonight on them while I didn’t even have a good strike, using the normal colored lures most bass fishermen use. Not some flourescent bright green things like he uses.

Ok, now if you read most articles about fishing stained water, you will read to use dark colored lures like black and grape because the dark colors in stained water show up better. I might have to change my perception on this if he continues to catch fish the way he does on these bright flourescent colors.

Well, I was informed tonight, he has a lure that he made and he has never seen another lure like it anywhere. I can hardly wait to see this thing. I bet it is bright pink or something. He also tells me he has caught bass on it. If this lure come out to be another flourescent bright color like he has been using and catches bass, I am going to tell him the new rules are that he can’t use them anymore when we fish together because the colors embarrass me when people see them..

So, you might be asking yourself….what is the point in this post? I am going to tell you here and now. Just because you have never read about a pro using a different color lure doesn’t mean it isn’t going to work and catch bass. If nothing else, Joe has made me a believer in that statement. Just because you have never seen a color in another humans tackle box doesn’t mean it isn’t any good.

I am going to start buying bright colored lures like I would have never dreamed of owning before this year fishing with Joe. Then when someone laughs at me and makes statements to me, like I did Joe and I drag in the bass using it, they will probably be buying these stupid bright flourescent colors too.

The last thing he said to me tonight after his usual bragging (the rare times he catches more fish than me) was “Hey, maybe you should get your newsletter and read some of the articles there”.

Happy Birthday Joe….maybe I let you catch the most bass because it’s your birthday tomorrow…..maybe not.

By Tim Gorman

If you’re an active fisherman, then your choice of fishing reel is very important. Standing on the bank of a river or stream, water sparkling in the sun, and the thrill of a big catch - it’s an unbeatable feeling. You’ve played the fish carefully, bringing it using your reel as the fish tired. The last thing you need is for your fishing reel to let you down and spoil this idyllic picture.

Basically, a fishing reel is the part of your fishing equipment that you use to cast and retrieve the fishing line. It’s mounted on the fishing rod, and uses a spool and axle. You can also buy fishing reels designed to mount on boats. The three main types of fishing reels match the three most popular fishing styles - bait casting, spin casting and fly-casting.

Fishing Reels for Bait Casting

This type of reel is extremely complicated. The weight of the lures being used pulls the line off the rod. It’s then thrust forward as part of the casting motion. Most bait casting reels include a device to lay the line evenly across the rotating cylinder that forms the reel’s core. If you don’t cast smoothly, you will most likely have problems when you reel the line back in. It can become tangled, which is very frustrating. After all, who wants to spend ages untangling the line? For this reason, bait-casting reels are generally not recommended for beginners or children.

Fishing Reels for Spin Casting

When it comes to spinning reels, there are two types to choose from - closed faced and open faced. If you’re learning to fish, the closed faced spinning reel is a great choice. It’s mostly trouble free, and is perfectly capable of bringing in your catch. When you’re casting there’s a push button release, and there’s also an opening in the top where the line comes out during casting. You mount this type of reel on your fishing reed. When you buy a prepackaged rod and reel, it will almost always have this type of reel, and spinning reels are very popular with beginners, children, hobbyists and casual sportsmen.

An open faced spinning reel can be more difficult to use. They come in a range of sizes, to suit different conditions. An ultra light model can be used for catching pan fish, but if you’re going game or ocean fishing, you’ll need a larger model. The advantage of an open-faced reel is that it has a much greater line capacity, and can be used for salmon and trout. The drag is smooth, so they’re a great choice for longer run game fish.

It’s common for fishing enthusiasts to start out with a close face-spinning reel, and then graduate to an open-faced reel as they gain experience. It’s always worth spending a little bit extra to get a good quality reel. Many cheap reels contain plastic parts, and you run the risk of them failing if you catch a larger fish. A common rule of thumb is that the lighter the line, the smaller the reel needs to be. So check and make sure your reel matches the fishing line you’re going to use. If you only want to buy one reel, then go for a medium speed one. If your budget runs to two reels, choose both a low and high-speed reel. Also, reels are different for right and left handed people, so make sure you mention this when you’re shopping for a reel. Right-handed reels turn clockwise, whereas left-handed reels turn counter clockwise.

Fishing Reels for Fly Fishing

Fly fishing involves another set of skills, and so a different type of reel. You need to ensure that your fly fishing reel’s drag is highly responsive. You also need to buy a reel that can cope with the tension and strain of a really big catch. These are generally the most expensive type of fishing reels, so make sure there are no plastic parts that can fail - something which happens far too often with a big fish on the line. Buy an all-metal reel, and you won’t have to tell as many ‘the one that got away’ stories.

If you’re still unsure what sort of reel you need, talk to a friendly fishing enthusiast, or ask the staff at your fishing store. Most fishermen are happy to help out someone who’s new.

By Tim Gorman

Do you get tired of having to tell ‘the one that got away’ fishing stories? Would you rather be able to talk about your amazing day on the bank of a swiftly moving stream, a gnarled willow shading you as you pull in a big fish, your fishing rod straining the whole way. In the end, it could be your fishing rod that makes the difference - it can be the deciding factor in whether or not you land that fish.

Fishing rods can be made from all sorts of different materials, including, fiberglass, graphite, steel, bamboo or wood. Fishing filament, or line, is threaded through the ferrules (eyes) located along the flexible rod. There’s a rod at the base of the pole, which the line winds onto, and the other end of the line has a barbed hook for attaching the bait. Once a fish takes the bait, you use a handle to reel in the line.

Fishing rods come in a wide range of sizes, with everything from 4-foot rods for children, right through to 16-foot rods. Generally they’re around 6 feet in length. A longer rod puts more force on the angler’s arms. It’s important to choose a rod that’s right for you, as it’s the backbone of your fishing tackle. When you’re deciding on rod length, you need to consider what type of fish you’re planning to catch, and the fishing location itself, including the type of water.

If you’re fishing hole is located in a treed landscape, with lots of overhead branches, you’re best choosing a short, flexible rod to prevent snagging. Short, strong rods are good for landing game fish. In moderate wind conditions, you might find a flexible, thin rod around 10 to 12 feet in length works best. Thicker, stronger rods are only for large, aggressive fish, such as muskellunge, northern pike, walleye and Arctic char. A light and flexible pole would soon snap landing those fish. Flexibility is determined by the diameter of the pole, and is the amount the pole can bend before it breaks. Strong rods are thick and rigid, light rods are thinner and more flexible.

There are ferrules, or small metal rings, spaced from the handle to the tip of a rod. They help you to cast and retrieve more smoothly by guiding your fishing line. The tip ferrule is crucial in directing your cast. The reel is attached to the rod using a reel seat, which is generally located near the handle grip.

If you want something simple, a fishing rod can be as basic as a bamboo rod with a line attached. Something like this is great for kids. Or you can go to the other extreme, and buy an expensive handcrafted rod, also made of bamboo, for fly fishing purposes. You can spend anything from a few dollars to hundreds of dollars on a bamboo rod. Generally, though, unless you’re keen on fly fishing, you’re better to look at fiberglass or graphite rods.

For beginners and kids, fiberglass rods are a great choice. You can choose from a variety of lengths and flexibility. You can usually buy one at a reasonable price, and there are plenty of different types of rods available. They’re quite resilient, and require very little maintenance, if any at all.

If you’re a little more experienced, though, you may prefer a graphite rod. These are extremely strong but still very lightweight. Graphite is generally considered the best of the basic rods.

When you’re starting out, it’s often simplest to buy a prepackaged rod and reel, and then you can move on to more sophisticated tackle when you gain some experienced. If you really don’t know whether you will enjoy fishing, it might be a good idea to borrow a rod from a friend, rather than spending money on tackle that sits in the cupboard.

A fishing rod needs to complement your style, if you want to become a skilled and successful angler. It acts as an extension of your arm, and is the backbone of your fishing tackle. However it doesn’t have to be a big ordeal to choose the right rod. Ask yourself some basic questions, such as where and how often you plan to fish. For example, are you planning to catch freshwater or saltwater fish? Freshwater fishing is done in the interior of the country, at locations such as lakes, rivers, ponds and streams, whereas saltwater fishing is done along the coast or out on the ocean. Different rods suit difference conditions.

If you’re starting out, buy something at a reasonable price, and only spend the bigger dollars when you have some experience and you know you want to keep fishing. It might be worth asking a friend who’s an experienced angler to go rod shopping with you, to make sure you find a rod that’s comfortable and appropriate for your fishing needs. Otherwise, spend some time chatting with the staff at your local fishing store. They have a lot of experience in rod selection, and are sure to be able to help you find a fishing that’s perfect for your needs.

By Ryan O Kelly

Using dropper flies is nothing new in the fly fishing world. The oldest reference I know dates all the way back to the 1930’s. To many novice fly fishermen it can be an eye opening technique. There is no other technique I use more over the course of the year and none more effective. Using two flies can double your chances, but it offers much more than that. In situations when fish can be spooky, a dry fly used as an indicator can avoid scaring the fish. Bright colored indicators are easy for fishermen to see. They are also easy for fish to see. Also something as simple as the shape of the indicator can spook a fish. Oft times when the fish are spooky I like to use a long leader to the dry fly as well as a long dropper to the nymph. Many days I change from using a traditional strike indicator to a dry/dropper and it makes all the difference. I do not change the nymph, just the indicator. Here are some easy steps when fishing dry/dropper.

1. Use a Dry fly buoyant enough to hold up the dropper. Here is a common mistake. I have watched a lot of people use a dry that constantly sinks. It’s hard to catch fish when your constantly casting because your fly keeps sinking. It also creates a mentality that your fly is being drug under by the dropper and not being taken under by a fish. You want to have the mentality that every time your dry fly goes under it is a fish and you should set it! I like to use foam terrestrials such as chernobyl ants or hoppers.

2. Tie your dropper to the bend of the hook. I prefer to tie my droppers to the bend of the hook rather than through the eye. It allows for better casting and easier knot attachment.

3. Observe the fish and structure to determine the length of your dropper. There is a big misconception that the length of the dropper should be 1-2 feet. I fish my droppers from from six inches to five feet. Any dropper over five feet becomes difficult to cast. I call the Green River my home water and it is crystal clear. If you take a few minutes from a good vantage point you can see the depth at which the fish are feeding. In mid-summer and fall the fish tend to be at 4-5 feet. In the spring during the blue wing hatch the fish are at 1-2 feet. Let the fish tell you how deep you should go. If there are not any visible fish look at the depth of the water you are fishing. If the fish are not visible the are holding close to the bottom or in structure. Make sure you get your fly in front of the fish.

4. Observe what the fish are eating.This should be the first thing you do when selecting a fly no matter the technique you are using. If bugs are not visible, look under rocks, on trees, or consult a fly shop.

5. Use a weighted dropper that will keep the dropper line tot. If there is slack between the dry fly and the dropper you will miss most of the fish that eat your dropper.

6. Fish with slack in the fly line. This will give you a better dead drift. If your not looking for a dead drift then disregard this step.

Finally, dropper lines, especially longer ones, can be difficult to cast. The key is making sure you load the rod. It will take longer to load the rod than it would if you were fishing a single dry fly. Pause longer on your back cast and you will avoid the tangles that discourage fishermen from fishing this effective method.

By Tim Gorman

Fishing is a great hobby, giving you the chance to be out in the fresh air and sunshine while you’re relaxing. You can get far away from the hustle and bustle of daily life, and be at one with nature.

Like most hobbies, fishing requires some basic equipment. Fishing tackle is the gear you use to get artificial or live bait in front of a fish. You don’t need much tackle to get started in fishing, but it’s important to get the basics right. You can always add more tackle once your skill level improves, and you’re ready to use more advanced tackle.

Rod and Reel

This is probably the most important piece of tackle. It’s good to start off with a lightweight rod and spinner reel, because they’re easier to handle and make it simpler to tell when you’ve had a bite. Quite often you can purchase this as one unit. If you’re just thinking about taking up fishing, borrow one from a friend to try it out. A fishing rod suitable for an adult is usually 6 feet long, and a child’s rod 4 to 5 feet long.

Fishing Line

Fishing line is also called filament, and you can buy it in a variety of sizes or strengths. The strength is measured in a unit called pound-test, and the higher the pound-test number, the stronger the fishing line. It’s important to choose line that matches your rod and reel, the bait you use and the fish you’re planning to catch. If you’ve got a small, lightweight rod, and use spin casting or a spinning reel, you only need line up to 6 pound-test. The most popular line is in the 8 to 16 pound-test range. It’s important not to use too heavy a line, though, because it becomes more visible to the fish. Most basic equipment and kids’ rods are best used with 8 pound-test fishing line.

Bait

Bait can be either live or artificial, and there are plenty of varieties. You can always use the old favorite from the garden, earthworms, particularly if you have an active compost heap. If you don’t have your own worms, you can buy them, or else use mealworms, grubs, kernel corn or bread balls.

Floats

Floats, or bobbers, are attached to the fishing line, and sit on the water surface. When the float dips into the water, you know a fish has taken a bite. It’s best to use small floats, with just enough weight to stop the bait dragging it under the water. Pencil shaped bobbers are the most sensitive, but you can also use a round bobber which is generally easier to cast. Slip bobbers are easy to adjust and use, and are great for beginners and children.

Hooks

You can buy fishhooks in a large range of sizes and styles. If you’re going to use live bait, you’ll probably find it easiest to buy a variety pack, so that you get a range of hooks from size No. 6 to No. 10. If you’re after bigger fish, get larger hooks. For catch and release fishing, you need to flatten the barbs on your fishhook, to minimize damage to the inside of the fish’s mouth. As a general rule of thumb, work out what type of fish you’re planning to catch and use a hook that’s compatible with the size of the fish’s mouth. If it’s too small, the fish will swallow the hook, and if it’s too big, the fish won’t take the bait.

Sinkers or Weights

You need these to stop your line from floating on the surface of the water. You can get everything from split shot sinkers that range from tiny through to pencil size, right up to sinkers that weight a pound or more. For beginners and children, use split shot. Make sure they’re lead free to protect the environment.

Other Gear

By Evans KC

To the inexperienced eye, a fishing pole, is a fishing pole, is a fishing pole! But to the experienced fisherman a pole is the 1st item in the list of things you must get right to catch a fish. There are heavy duty salt water poles that are made for catching something huge out of the ocean. And if salt water fishing is what you have in mind then the monster pole is exactly what you need. A person might think that the salt water pole is the way to go with all types of fishing. The bigger the pole the bigger the fish, type thinking. But as heavy as those salt water poles are, it takes a big fish to even know you have something on your fishing line. Also the boats you go out on to fish the sea have pole holders to help you hold and control your pole. Those poles are too heavy and awkward to use for fresh water fishing. Fishing in any of the fresh water rivers, lakes, or beaver ponds you can go with a lighter fishing rod. In most stores you find poles marked medium, light, and extra light. The lighter the pole, the smaller the fish you will feel on the end of the rod. That’s called the action of a pole. Now that means feel the fish bite the bait, not the size of fish the pole can catch. But if you go too light you run the risk of breaking your pole when trying to bring in a fish.

If you do go with a lighter pole ( an extra light is my favorite due to its action ) you can beef it up a bit by going with fishing line heavy enough to handle the size of fish your expecting to catch. I fish beaver ponds and mountain lakes mostly that’s why an extra light works for me. If your fishing in the south for a big ‘ol catfish then you will do better with a medium action pole. Then there is also a fly pole which can be used in fresh water fishing except for trolling or fishing for something like catfish ( they’re bottom feeders, you use a fly pole for on top of the water feeders like rainbow trout ). Once you figure out where you want to fish and pick the pole best for you, then you decide on the weight of the fishing line. From this point on your supplies that you need depend on where your going to fish and the enviromental conditions. I recommend trying to put together a well stocked tackle box that cover the needs for several types of fishing and different conditions.

You will need extra fishing line, hooks of different sizes, sinkers, bobbers, an assortment of flies, salmon eggs, and other bait. A small but sharp knife, a pair of scissors, a stringer to put the fish you catch on, and a fish scale. For the Rookie I would recommend a beginners book to explain some of the basics about light, water clarity and some of the other things. Another thing I always do when preparing to fish in a new area, is to talk to the natives. Ask the gal at the counter of the fishing tackle store what the fish are biting on and where are the hot spots. With time and practice you will develop your own technique and figure out which pole, line, and bait work best for you. There is only one thing left….Don’t forget to buy a fishing license! Oh and have FUN!!

By Malabika Mukherjee

Be it a warm summer morning or a cold wintry afternoon, you can never fail to see a fishing line or two while passing a lake or a stream. Fishing is a habit close to addiction for those who have the flair and skill for it. Ask any seasoned angler what it takes to land up with a good catch and he’ll promptly tell you that it is sheer instinct and logic mixed with basic common sense. With a lot of practice and experience, you get to know which rod and reel is best suited with which line and in what kind of rig. Matching all the fishing tools properly goes a long way in making a fishing experience both enjoyable and productive.

Now let us go through the checklist of fishing equipment for the benefit of beginners. The list includes the following basic tools:

1. Fishing rod
2. Hook
3. Line
4. Reel
5. Float/bobber
6. Sinker
7. Lure

Before getting into the nitty-gritty of the best combination of the above-mentioned equipment for good fishing experience, let us discuss briefly the different varieties of each tool available in the market.

Fishing rod:

In modern times, a fishing rod is manufactured to allow the angler to feel the bite of fish. The rod shaft is termed as blank. The blank is usually made of graphite, fiberglass, or other material depending upon its actions. The action of these blanks can be light, medium, medium-heavy, and heavy. The actions of the tip of the blank are called regular, light, and extra light. When the guides and handles have been assembled onto the blank, we get a complete fishing rod. Depending on the type of fish you are out to catch, you can choose a rod based on its blank. Most of the new graphite rods are light in weight and are balanced at the reel seat (i.e., when you set the rod handle on your finger with the reel attached, the rod should balance equally from tip to the end of the handle). The guides (or eyes) fitted on the rod help in transmitting signals to the rod so that the angler can feel the fish biting on the bait. The guides should be clean and in prim condition to allow optimum performance of the rod.

When choosing handle length, think of your comfort level. If you are on high ground, then a 7-foot rod can be a good choice so that you can cast farther. However, if the ground is low, then a shorter rod will make it easier for you to flip, cast and spoon fish.

For bass fishing, light action rods are a definite no-no as it takes some effort to pull a bass out whereas for small bait-fish, you need an extra fast action blank tip to prevent the fish from making desperate movements. Hence it is clear that you must choose your rod based on your catch.

Hook:

Hooks are needed to allow the angler to use the bait and help the bait to stay on longer, thus increasing potential chance of a catch. Hooks can be chosen according to the size of the fish from juvenile to adulthood. Hooks come in a wide variety of colours, metal treatments and finishes. Some are better suited for salt-water applications while others perform well in freshwater. There are certain hooks that are invisible under certain light conditions whilst differences in water colour and distinct clarity may be the requirement for other types of hooks.

The most popular and widely used varieties of hooks are:

Octopus hook – Most common, it is an octopus-like strong tapered shank hook with a turned up tapered eye, wide open mouth and moderate depth throat. The curved-in point in this pattern is extremely sharp and penetrates readily. Mostly used for snappers.

Long shank hook – This has a kerbed parabolic bend, shallow bite, either a short curved-in point or a modified hollow point. This is used in case of fast-biting fish and ideal for kids to handle.

Circle hook pattern – This one commonly has an extra strong forged shaft with a wide circular or squared-off bend narrowing to an exaggerated re-entrant point. This has a deep penetration point. This is very popular amongst game fishers.

Ganging hook – This usually has the turned down, open eye Kendall Kirby pattern with a medium length flexibly formed wire shaft, in sizes ranging from 1/0 to 6/0. The open eye is intended to be used to combine two or three ganging hooks to form a ganged set depending on the size of bait. The ganging hook is ideal for whole baits like garfish and when the bait is being smashed against rocky terrain.

Southern and tuna hook – This is heavily forged with the rod tapering to a brazed ring and the circular bend with its knife edge point drawn inwards toward the rod. This type of hook, once lodged into the mouth of a fish is difficult to dislodge. This is popular with game fishers.

Line:

From the anciently used piece of cotton string, fishing lines have evolved to a much fancier version in the present day. Braided lines are still sometimes used in saltwater for big fish, but most anglers use monofilament lines called the new super lines. Monofilament comes in basically two types – a flexible, or limp, line that has some stretch, but seldom recoils or snaps when cast and left on the reel for a long time. The other is more abrasion resistant, less stretch and usually retains some memory and tends to hold a coil when it’s been on the reel for a while, thus increasing the chance of a backlash.

Braided line has a smaller diameter compared to monofilament for the same line size and is generally not taut. It is used for flipping (placing the bait quietly in a given spot using an underhand cast, without disturbing the water, while holding the rod with the other hand)and pitching (putting worms or jigs into cover at close distances using underhand pendulum motion) where high strength and good abrasion resistance is needed.

In case of bream fishing, a light-weight line of 4-8 pounds will suffice whereas with bass fishing, 6-12 pounds (or even 12-24 pounds) is required. Tying a good knot in the line to hold the hook is essential. The basic knots used by anglers are: Clinch, Palomar (simple knot for terminal tackle), Uni (also known as the Hangman’s knot) and Loop (can be easily tied at night with minimum effort).

Reel:

Reels have come a long way from the old direct drive, sleeve-bearing to the sophisticated ones found in modern times. They come in four basic types, the simplest of them being the closed-face spinning reel, which is operated by a push button and helps protect against getting tangled when you cast the rod. Next comes the open-face spinning reel which helps in casting the line a little further. The size of the reel depends upon the weight of fishing line. Another reel type is the bait-casting reel. These reels have some kind of a braking system, (either magnetic or centrifugal) to help slow the spool and control backlash problems. The more the number of ball or needle bearings in the reel, the more costly it turns out to be. The fourth type of reel is the fly-fishing reel. A fly reel is not cast, and is mainly a place to store the line and keep it free from tangles. Line is pulled from the reel, and the rod is waved overhead to work the line out.

Float/bobber:

Floats are used by anglers for two distinct purposes – to insert the bait at the surface or a specific depth under the water level, and as a bait indicator showing whether the fish is at the bait or not, allowing the angler to know when to strike and set the hook. They can be used for both fresh-water as well as salt-water experiences. Floats come in a wide shapes and sizes with different levels of buoyancy.

Some commonly used varieties of floats include: bobby cork and casting float (used for casting large baits over greater distance. Provide minimum wind resistance and sits on water with stability. Used by land-based anglers and sport anglers); bubble float (clear plastic float used for freshwater fishing in clear, least turbulent water); pencil float (a centre spindle pierced through the center of a cork, this can be used as a fixed float at a predetermined depth or as a running float at an adjustable depth. Provides minimum resistance to the fish when biting at the bait, so angler can time the strike to set the hook); quill float (it is very long, narrow and incredibly light consisting of attachment clips and snaps. Being light, fish feels no resistance from surface while taking the bait and the angler can take time to strike to set the hook); cork and homemade float (cork being inexpensive, tough and featuring the flexibility to be cut into various shapes and sizes makes it ideal for using it to make homemade floats).

Sinker:

The primary utility of a sinker is to present and hold the bait or lure at a particular depth beneath the surface of water. The various types of sinkers are: ball, barrel, bean, split shot, snapper lead, tear drop, star, and spoon (used for ease of retrieve of fish).

The ball, barrel, and bean sinkers are mainly designed to allow a degree of movement. These types of sinkers can be used in all kinds of water, still or turbulent. Whether at the bottom of the water surface or at mid-water, a fish can move off with them without feeling the weight of the line.

Split shot sinkers are similar to ball sinkers, but mostly used in calm or least turbulent water. These sinkers can be used with different weighing configurations. Split shots can be used for catching small finicky fish feeding at particular depths with a lot of ease.

Snapper leads and tear drop sinkers are mainly used for deep-sea fishing with heavier lines. These provide the advantage of holding the bait vertically even in strong currents. They are also used as surf casting sinkers.

Star sinkers are primarily used for surf, beaches and estuary usage supporting moderate to heavy lines. These sinkers provide great horizontal stability to the baits due to their star- pyramid shape and heavy bodies. These can be used in strong currents.

Lure/flies:

Lures are colourful, artificial plastics or metal shapes used to attract the attention of the fish by simulating the look and movement of their natural prey, to fool them into believing these can be eaten, or even to challenge their territorial instincts. Lures are available in various shapes, sizes and colours catering to the various needs of an angler. The common lures are – minnow types (look like small fish with metal or plastic bib, Ideal for nearly all casting and trolling purposes), soft and scented plastics, metal lures and slices (heavy replicas of bait-fish, ideal for fishing off beaches and rocks), surface poppers (cigar-shaped, suitable for surf, trolling and estuary usage), skirted trolling lures (designed to be tough and used for salt water game-fishing), jigs (heavy-weight fast sinking lure meant for lifting and dropping the lure repeatedly by hand or by rod and wind action from the side of a boat or jetty. They are useful for catching tuna, mackerel and kingfish), squid jigs (squids used as baits for catching snapper or gummy sharks), celtas and insect spinners (for fresh-water fish like trout and red fin).

Flies are used for replicating natural behaviour of aquatic insects on which fish feed in water and with their subtle movement and placement, can be used to trick the fish to rush towards the bait or to challenge their natural territory. Different types of flies and aquatic insects have their habitats at different levels of water. Depending on which fish feeds on what type of insects, flies can be presented as live baits at that level of water column to bait that particular variety of fish. Flies can be categorized into wet fly, dry fly, Matuka and salt water fly collections depending on the surface they can be located at.

Finally for the beginner, the affordable and least complicated combination of fishing equipment would be a Zebco 33 rod and reel package. It comes with a 10-pound line meant for most small and medium sized fish. The other basic tackle that’ll be required are – size #6 or #8 live bait hooks, a couple of crappie rigs, a few 1/4-ounce and 3/8-ounce bell sinkers, a small cork or float. For a less messy experience, you could stock up the following artificial tackles – a package of 1/0 offset worm hooks, some 3/16-ounce bullet worm weights and a package of 4-inch watermelon and pumpkinseed Venom worms called Slammers, one or two 1/8-ounce shad pattern spinner baits and a couple of 1/4-ounce chrome/blue back lipless crank baits. For crappie, perch and sand bass, you need a few small white and bright yellowish-green jig hooks with the same color small grubs (short plastic worms). These tools will not be too expensive, but will be enough for the basic tackle to lure a wide variety of species.

Getting the right combination of equipment and choice of bait comes with practice and experience, and as you try your luck with a variety of fish in different weather conditions and seasons, you can soon master this skill. Until then happy fishing!